BUENOS AIRES | WHERE TO EAT

Café Rivas
Estados Unidos 302, San Telmo
+1 54 114 361 5539
Quaint, picture-perfect café/restaurant that serves food and drinks all day. This is the perfect spot to hit for a glass of wine after a day of shopping at the San Telmo market.

Café Tortoni
Avenido de Mayo 825
+1 54 11 4342 4328
Step back in time at one of the oldest and most beautiful cafés in Buenos Aires. Yes, Café Tortoni is touristy and the food is mediocre, but it’s worth a visit for the atmosphere alone. Inspired by turn of the century Parisian coffee houses, there are mahogany tables, stained glass windows, and walls filled with historical memorabilia. Avoid a meal but go for a coffee break and indulge in the fresh churros served by elegant, tuxedoed waiters.

Duhau Restaurante & Vinoteca
A seat on the patio here at lunchtime is nothing short of paradise, so order an Aperol Spritz and take some time to peruse the menu—which will make you very, very happy. I can make it easy for you, though: Just get the Charred Leeks with Black Olive Dust and Egg Soufflé (I promise).

Fervor
Posadas 1519, Recoleta
+1 54 11 4804 4944
This was our favorite steakhouse! It has a buzzy, vibrant ambience, excellent service, and delicious food and wine. The atmosphere is bistro-like with velvet curtains, checkered floors, and leather banquettes. Reservations are a must as this place is popular with tourists and locals alike.

La Cabrera
Cabrera 5099, Palermo
+1 54 114 832 5754
This always packed, classic steakhouse serves enormous portions of beef on wooden boards with a plethora of side dishes. The friendly, old school waiters deliver your steak accompanied by so many sauces, sides, and condiments that you’ll barely be able to fit them on the table. We ate outside on the lovely sidewalk tables, but the inside is equally charming with a cozy, dimly lit atmosphere.

Casa Cavia
Cavia 2985, Palermo
+1 54 114 809 8600

Behind a nondescript door in the tony Palermo Chico section of Buenos Aires lies one of the most gorgeous restaurants you will ever, ever lay your eyes on. No joke. I’m not even sure how to describe it, except to say that your jaw will drop from the sheer, simple beauty of it. Think Elle Décor meets Vogue meets Parisian splendor meets … I don’t even know. Just trust me — it’s good. And the courtyard is a place you’ll enter and never want to leave. Oh, and then there’s the food: Spectacular, varied and not at all obvious. The star here was the Quinoa with Mushrooms, Arugula, and Goat Cheese — much like the kitchen in which it was made, this dish makes simplicity taste indulgent.

Las Pizzaras Bistro
Thames 2296
+54 11 4775-0625

Pizzaras means chalkboards in English, so it’s no surprise that the menu — which changes almost daily — is written on chalkboards that cover the walls of this incredibly simple yet inventive Palermo Soho spot. There are an insane number of veggie dishes to choose from, but our favorite of the night was the Arugula and Radicchio Salad with almonds, pomegranate, and apricots.

Ninina
MALBA, Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Buenos Aires
+54 11 4832-0070
Leave it to Buenos Aires to not only build the coolest-looking modern art museum (that would be the Museo de Arte Latino Americano de Buenos Aires, better known as MALBA), but to also include a café that is much more than your average museum quick-serve spot. In fact, Ninina is a restaurant all on its own; the vibe is laid-back cool, with a side patio that will have you drinking more Aperol at lunch than you may have intended.

Parrilla Don Julio
Guatemala 4691, Palermo Soho
+1 54 11 4832 6058

This traditional, old school Argentine grill has served some of the best beef in Buenos Aires for over 20 years. Complimentary champagne and delicious empanadas make waiting in line for a table festive. Once seated you’ll receive outstanding service and top-notch food from experienced waiters. At the end of the meal you can sign your winebottle to add to their walls of wine bottles finished by happy customers.

Proper
1676 Araoz
+1 54 11 4831 0027
Proper is the new-ish, super hipster, tapas-y spot located in an old mechanic’s garage. No surprise, then, that the service is somewhat Williamsburg-y and with a lineup of ingredients you’d definitely encounter in Brooklyn. There were a handful of standouts here, but for me it was all about the Grilled Corn with cashew cream, watercress and grapes.

Sotto Voce
Libertador 1098
+1 54 11 4807 6691
When you’ve overdone it on the steakhouses, take a break at this delicious Italian spot that was highly recommended by an Argentine friend. The food (we loved the homemade pasta!), service and wine were outstanding and we sat upstairs which made for great people watching over the chic, mainly local, crowd dining below us.

Uco
Hotel Fierro
Soler 5862
+1 54 11 322 0682

Located inside teeny boutique Hotel Fierro in Palermo Soho, Uco is one of the only restaurants in this ‘hood to offer a totally secluded outdoor courtyard — which is perfectly perfect. The food is straightforward and delish, and the Burrata (with roasted eggplant and oven-dried tomatoes) was smoky, creamy, and surprisingly filling.